LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN
By Jack Baxter
In the week after London Collections: Men and now having been back over all the footage from the shows, I’ve collated my Top 5 collections. There was such an amazing variety at the shows this year and it has been truly difficult to find my favourites. But I have and here is what you need to be looking out for Spring/Summer 2014.
Day 1 Highlights:
For me day one was all about the Topman show. I’m always excited by what they have to offer and this show was no exception. The entire collection had a wonderful western inspired theme in the shaping and detailing on the shirts. The light, silky fabrics that they have chosen for this collection gives this western look a new twist, which makes the collection feel more refined. Topman always do monochrome well, but with the subtle colour introductions in the embroidery works incredibly with the blacks and whites and more neutral tones of this collection. My favourite part of this collection has to be the metallic brogues. Metallics are going to be even bigger next year and I cannot wait until I can buy myself a pair of the silver brogues that accompany this collection so perfectly.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L7GJD1yt83Y&feature=share&list=PL6JoEEZ9lu9J8Ye-uXhJWLFkKxqcy3axq
Another favourite from day one was Hardy Amies collection. A very wearable collection of simple, clean, classic tailoring. The subtle colour palette of pale greys and deep navy blues, with occasional injections of vivid shades of orange or mossy green, will make for a faultless look next spring. The fantastic layering of patterned shirts and ties in tonal variation, makes this collection perfect for the modern gentleman.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MIXcindf9Ao&feature=share&list=PL6JoEEZ9lu9J8Ye-uXhJWLFkKxqcy3axq
Day 2 Highlights:
Following on from the gentlemanly features of Hardy Amies collection, day two saw Hackett London grace the catwalk with a 1930s inspired collection. Tonal layering is very prominent in this collection giving it a classic elegance that is reminiscent of Stephen Fry’s, ‘Bright Young Things’, 2003.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o-Q5YRxMbnY&feature=share&list=PL6JoEEZ9lu9IzJIkWmI46cMaojejpoFSe
In contrast to the more muted colours of Hackett London, Orlebar Brown brought us a brilliantly bright collection, perfect for the summer months. Hand illustrated prints, inspired by summer days of the 1950s in Monaco, bring a nostalgic feel to the collection. For me, gives this collection a more casual, everyday wearable feel to it which has been lacking from other collections this year.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ntm-RodEqbw&feature=share&list=PL6JoEEZ9lu9IzJIkWmI46cMaojejpoFSe
Day 3 Highlights:
Day three, brings one of my all time favourite collections from Alexander McQueen. Even in his absence, each collection still maintains a level of amazement for me that I hope will never die. This collection was no exception. Beautifully theatrical as always, with knee length coats and patent shoes which really set off this monochrome marvel. Incredible use of texture, with the use of devoré and laser-cutting which, when layered up with other pieces from the collection give an amazingly elegant and stylish finish. This elegance is echoed in the interestingly feminine shape of the tailoring, with nipped in waists which feature strongly in this collection.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kgeVVSeO0Uk&feature=share&list=PL6JoEEZ9lu9ISGIatYCw09-dZPhXiL2b8
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